Tag*a*long Adventures

I know I owe more than titles and I promise in the next few days - they will come.

But look daily for the photos updates - should be able to see them on the side

The rain that has been the talk of the weather forecast begins tomorrow ... slowy but then up to potential heavy rain. Ah, to be the weatherman and guess and dream what wild things the weather might do. And it seems that for the weather here - his dreams seem to have a lot to do with rain. All that to say, I decided since today was potentially the last day before the floods came - that I would do my exploration in the Oltrarno['beyond the Arno"].

Before the journey to Oltrano began; I had made what I thought was a delightful discovery of a Museo Storico Topografico which the site said was open only on Monday and Tuesday's. The idea of seeing maps and how the landscape had changed and grown over centuries interested me greatly and amazingly, I was able to find it from my passing understanding of street connections and what I remembered looking at the map the night before. Saddly, however, the museum is closed for the moment and not open to the public.

That being said, I headed across the Ponte alle Grazie and head up into Oltrarno and towards the Pizzale Michelangelo. I possibly walked up the San Miniato al Monte but all I can share for sure is that there was snow and ice melting on the many many many steps I climbed to discover with in short flat steps - I was at Pizzale Michelangelo. The view was gorgeous and I got to see a couple having their wedding photos taken up there.

From there I found a little garden to sit, wander and explorer for a little bit before heading over to Santa Felicita. Once I found the Santa Felicita and saw that more steps of grand siz and number greeted the potential of seeing a church I was only marginally interested in that morning; I decided that I would stroll make to Firenze and possibly lunch. As I walked down a street, descending in a leisurely fashion, looking at houses and cars and other thoughts crossing my mind; one thing seemed far from thought. The fact that I could not see very well Florence anymore. When that thought did catch up with me; I came to realize I was walking down the hill into the Tuscan sun but not into Florence. I sighed, chuckled and turned around and started my long walk back to Florence. Of course, when another road came upon me that seemed slow and windy I still chose to try it, to give it the oppertunity to bring me to Florence. Though windy and scenic, thankfully this one did not dead end and require me to go up again but brought me out to where the old outskirt wall of the city rose forth. Ah yes, much longer than I had thought but victory was mine

Now lunch time was almost pass and I was not as hungry as I had thought so I meandered across the Ponte Vecchio and went to see what the lines at the Galleria delgi Uffizi were looking like to know how early I needed to get there tomorrow. Yet, no lines greeted me and I was suddenly in the museum and seeing art of old. Without a doubt my favorite portion of the museum was the statues; beautiful, magnificent and set up as they were when the palace first embraced them. The detail, smoothness and attention to beauty amazed me. Again the attention to detail on the ceilings was breathtaking and thankfully it wasn't busy as I don't think I did a good job watching where I was walking.

After the time spent there, I went on quest for my next gelatrie, which turned out to be my favorite: Vivoli. Ah, the simplest of flavors [chocolate chip] but the flavor of the vanilla gelato alone sent my palatte rushing trying to decipher all the nuances and subtle variety that made this one so amazing. Seriously, I loved it so much that I almost went back another day not to get the small but the largest one they had. My stomach is probably thankful that day did not come.

After a brief respite at the hotel, I headed out to take a stroll through the via de Tornabuoni where all the fashion lives. Very beautiful but as we all know; I am not a shopper but I do enjoy to look and see what is in vogue and new. As I was having a flare up, I headed home and grabbed a paini with Italian meat and cheeses and a nutella canolli [yes Rebecca - I will make this for you when I get home] and stayed in for the night trying to rest, reading up on my Italian and other options of activities that I might explore Though resting is not my strength, I did take this as the oppertunity to try to wash some of my clothes in my Tide for travel ... the Tide did great and the clothes smelled fresh; I did learn that hanging clothes take a lot longer than my dryer minded-mind realized. Oh well, at least I felt I accomplished something that evening. I also read some more of my book I brought for the trip, the new Kate Morton book called "Distant Hours".

Thus ends the last night before the rain comes.

Firenze is an older verision of NYC in many ways. Instead of tall skylines that thrust to reach the sky first, Firenze is the result of arms thrown open, dropping jewels where they may lay but both jockey for land, for position, for the beest angle to be looked and admired at. The roads in both have no logic except that they all lead from one wonder to a next and delcare: that is enough. The streets have piles of garbage, endless waiting their turn to find another home. There are shops tucked into niches where you think not such magic could be contained and the food, ah yes, each discovery is a wonder of its own to behold. Though there we stop in our comparison. For what Firenze has centuries of and NYC waits paitently as a child to be able to claim is history. Everything in Firenze breaths it - even as new is being created, it still stays in time and with respect to those that came before, that let their mark.

It is the history here that I think makes me silent, slightly dazed and my appetite full, as if the sights themselves are nourishing me. Especially at the archelogical site did I lose my breath [though that was as well as the ancient have a slight odor to them]. The chapels and sites I learned and read and viewed and pondered about were now here, and I was amongst them. History spoke to me, rushing forward all that I had learned and reminding me of the truth that: it was real. Here stood a person like me, many years before living life where I now stand in the remains that remind one of the life that they had lived. Ah Italia, the people I have loved. I almost got on a train yesterday to go to Rome, where I know history and lore is founded so greatly but I paused; another time. There will be time in the future to quest Italy to find roots of history and lore that I grew up loving, wondering about. That is not this trip. This trip is about home. Firenze.

I started my day with a quest in mind - find the Galleria dell'Accadema. Four and a half hours later - I still had not but that is okay - I remembered somewhere in the jaunt that it is closed on Monday. Instead I came across some moments that I would have not discovered if I wasn't lost. I went to Market Centrale where though the plenty of the market would be a delight to shop - I was able to find Pomodorini Pachino [sweet sun dried tomatoes] which is a favorite of mine and Izzie. So I munched on them as I wandered in my search which lead me to a liberia [bookstore] that had a backroom painted with black light paint in Christmas scenes and another liberia that kept unfolding the further you went in. I found a paperie store and bought a piece of handmade paper that I will use somehow in the remembering of this trip. I almost got a traditional pen and ink but stopped myself and though - would I really write that way? Oh how I wish I had answerd yes. In the open market near my house I had another food favorite of mine - roasted chestnuts which it turns out is a street food here.

In my quest for gelato each day - I randomly came across in a little ally Trom where they had pantentonne gelato; which I did enjoy much. However, the woman indicated from the price I got two flavors - so I asked for her recommendation; which though I agree with her that mandarin is delicious - still don't think it was the right paring. On their own though - both very good.

In addition to visiting some churches and the aforementioned archelogical site, I went into the Da Vinci Museum and was quite entertained and amazed by all that he had accomplished. The diversity yet depth of knowledge is staggering and the improvements DaVinci made on many products is impressive. I will admit that in the section on his interest in biology they had a heart to go with a reading on a post about his scientific study and learnings of the heart. So I am not sure if it is real and they replace it often or fake but the one thing the heart did have was a fair amount of blood [or blood looking liquid] around it. It made you think that DaVinci reached right into the oxen, took it out and had just dropped it there for us all to learn about. All I could think as I chuckled and continued to gaze was "Here is where Rebz would have passed out.

After all of this, I came home for a little bit, took a rest while watching in German ski jumping [my second favorite winter sport to bobsledding] and got ready for my nightly stroll. This time I made it to the Duomo without getting lost and felt - victory is mine! I ate dinner at a little restaurante that made it easy as they had english under their Italian but it was the confidence I needed to order and fell confident in what I was getting. I had Italian meats [pancetta and mortadella] as an apetizer and then for dinner Florence crepes which is thin folded pasta over spinich /cheese inside and that is all encased in cheese and baked. All was good but the subtley of the meat was above all amazing and of course, a glass of vino biachi [Orvieto secco Ruffino].

To show how small the world really is, there is a couple that is on my floor, whom the gentleman is from Chagrin Falls, Ohio. And if you wondered if the language barrier would stop people for asking me to help or me offering; rest assured it has not.

Well, I bought a bath ball from Lush that has mistletoe on it and I am going to rest from my 7+ hours of strolling and think what I might do tomorrow. Until then.

After a full night of sleep, I was off this morning to the train station. Snow encasted the pre-dawn as I waited on the outdoor landing for the train. The ride was quiet as skiers slept, which gave me an oppertunity to watch the world before it awoke. The soft blue glow on the mountains was soothing like the blanket that encases the warmth in the cold of morning. The scenery made me want to get off and explore and see them awake and clothed in sun. Not today though. Today is the airport and then, a short while after that joy, Firenze [Florence].
One of my joys that is particular to this airport is the diverse languages I hear that mingle in the ear a symphony coming together. Also that people say "Bonjour [hello} to everyone just because they do. Since this part of Swiss is French in heritage it makes me think that perhaps the French get a bad rap. So far they have seen nothing but nice, or at least the French speaking Swiss have been for sure.
Now I set on my Swiss flight Zurich and smile; how I love flying and airports and all things travel. Even the TSA agents are about my fun; it is another person to great and share the joy of traveling with. Today I share the joy more so than normal as today is the day I go to Italy.
As we descend into Italy, passing through layer of layer of clouds I was caught off guard at the woman in front of me. The full grown, her face was almost pressed up against the window to catch a glimpse of the land and when she did - it was a meal that she had longed for so long - she didn't know where to look first. I thought perhaps tourist or like me, long-time dreamer but then came to realize - this is her home. Who knows the story that has kept her for a while [and again, what length of time would have made her miss here so much; years, months, a week?] and I did not not want to interrupt her welcome home. For though I was much calmer than I anticpated being at this moment, I only had one thought "I'm home".
To continue my jaunt as a local I chose to take the bus, which I have to be honest, stress me out even in Phialdelphia. I feel like buses have a secret code and rules to the club that i never get initiciated into it. A plane has a key start or stop. A car may not take you where you want to go but the exploration is part of the fun and at the end - you will get there. However, a bus is world that if you get off at the wrong stop - you might not know until you have tried to meander a few seats and then whom knows when the oppertunity for the bus you need to come back and you to figure out how to get on it and now get off at the correct stop. However, the little I did understand, seemed to indicate where I was needing to get off was a key stop and actually it turned out to be the only stop. So success was had and though i passed queue's of people waiting for the inner city bus - I would not say I have learned the world of bus; I just got an easy by-pass. [As I write this, outside my window at the park, there are young men of 20's lighting off fire works, which a short while ago was teenagers having snow fights in.]
Though Morges roads and sidewalks were crisp and clean overall, Firenze has more a natural approach; one that allows the ice and snow to do its own thing as though around it does theirs. This did lead to a huge fall by me as I was focused on figuring out my location, but other than a bruise, I made it the rest of my adventtures unscathed tonight, including finding my hotel.
Hotel Castri where I am staying at is in the northern part of Firenze on Via Nazionale. Outside my window is Piaza della indepndenza which is where the aforementioned snowball fight and firecrackers have occurred. Earlier when I arrived, several people where over ther taking pictres - so I will have to check it out. My room is on the third floor of a three story buidling sandwiched in between shops and a road full of food, shopping and other petite hotels. The room is goodsized and the attached bathroom has a tall shower which I am thankful for the railing to hold as I step in as that is no small step. Think those old baths with claws to elevate them and just make it look like a normal shower/tub and voila! that is what I have. I am not planning on spending a lot of time here but this hotel was the deal I found back when I was traveling by train and so far is very nice to have as a rest spot. Even the gentleman who cleans room was kind of enough to show me the trick to unlock my door [pull knob while turning key till door opens and I think you hold a button anyways - I can get in now after his demonstration].
As it was still daylight outside once I got settled, I decided against a rest and instead went to wander. Well what was to be a short walk to get my bearings and figure out my evening dinner plans turned into a two hour plus walk through most of the city. Though it really was the market that got me off track. Not that anyone is to blame as I came across so many historical and beautiful sights/sounds. Some highlights are:
- The market led out to a church where a group was performing outdoors and groups of people would stop and listen a while. To hear songs I knew sung in another tongue was really cool. I really enjoyed their rendition of Silent Night.
- As dusk settled on the city, the lights hung up over the streets brought a quiet reminder of Christmas. That combined with the "Buone Natale [Merry Christmas] signs out and listening to the above mentioned choir, I felt the season.
- I passed the Duomo, saw statues encounsed in snow, passed so many stores with names familar, well-known and ingruiting. Also I crossed the Ponte Santa Trinita, which on the way back, caught a view of the Ponte Vecchio.
- Somehow this jaunt that was in the northern portion of the city led me east and south much more than I expected. That is what happens when you always think you are viewing north. At one point I had to have that honest talk of "Niccole, I don't think this is east - I know it is to the right but let's check the map." Which is good we did as I was almost heading out the southern portion of the city, by heading "east".
Since my meanderings took me much further than anticpated, and though I slept well last night, I am still a bit tired, I decided to do a light dinner. This ended up consist of gelato pistachio [ now I know it is not as traditional but my all time favorite] at a great little place though as I passed others, there are some that I would like to very much try and others that I thought I'd pass as their gelato look more like smooth and frothy butter than dense goodness it should be. Oh and the presentations! Some of these pastritiess have the most beautiful ways of presenting their food. I finished off this dinner with a pancetta panini and am enjoying a canoli dessert with an grape feeling that is more wine flavored than grocery store grapes.
Now I am home. This city is crazy and wild and unorganized yet somehow it makes sense to me. The way people just walk out in front of cars as they always have the right away or walk on the streets instead of just the plentiful sidewalks or the pace itself - fast and purposeful. I would not describe me tonight as giddy or bouncing with emotion. I am at peace. When I was done adventuring, I thought "let's go home" and it felt good.
Well tomorrow I plan to theme my day - so I better look over my options and see what theme emerges. Buono Sera [ Good night].

After an education on the train system and some water to hydrate this dried out body; we were off through still darkened towns and a skline that like the world below, was just beginning to awake. Shower, quick touch-in and we were off exploring the town of Morges that Dawn calls home. Though no purchases were made from me, the sheer volume of life I absorbed was astounding.

We walked the market that was at once familar though foreign because actually all the reading I had done had described down to the minute detail all that it was. Perhaps that has to do with the fact that this tradition and purpose of the market has not really changed in decades and when something is as stable as that, it makes the description so much easier to be truth. The idea to grocery shop from vendors who for two days a week [Wednesday, Saturday] bring their fares of fresh meat, cut flowers, delightful cheeses to name a few, to a central location amongst performers and flea market booths is intriguing to me. However, watching the vast amount of locas wander, shop and take time to stop and chat, one quicklys comes to realize this is more about the community than conveninence.

Next we headed to a more traditional [for me] grocery store. The amount of options of yogurts alone kept me at bay from determing any product I might want to try ... for the moment. As I took the time to wander one aisle, I began to get a grasp of the vastiness of options that were so different than any I have known.

A quick hop and we had left the town of Morges behind and was now in Lausanne. Though history indicates the name is from the Roman foundation of the city, it should be in truth mean "3 really big hills ... like mountains hills" as that is in essence what the city is and why the city, after being named was relocated here for a better resistence in military battles. On the train unaware of the Alp like "hills" we were about to ascend, Dawn casually mentioned to me " I have a pace; walk at your own and we will meet at the top." I nodded knowing that my pace that day was more casual as I was not fully adjusted from the flight plus my eyes, up to this point, had been unable to focus on where I was walking as they were busy absorbing in all the sights around me. However, as we rounded the bend, me slightly behind Dawn but so far, keeping decently close, I realized this was no hill I was familar with. On top of the hill we had already climbed continued a mount to complete the hill. Thankfully the climbing of tow of the three hills starter earlier in exploriation as when we head back to the train I could delight in the downward descent on cobblestone roads with a stunning view greeting me a head.

Our first exploration in Lausanne was the Center City Market [open Wednesday, Saturdays]. Here I tried a local winter drink as we meandered the market; Vino Chaud [literaly means Wine Hot]. I would never though of adding a few spices and warming up vino but after getting to enjoy it in the cold, I think I have discovered a new winter delight. Here the market was not as transportable for the most part as in Morges as the main section would like mini wooden chateau's that vendors sold the wares from. Also we popped into speciality shops of hand made soaps, macaroons and one store who reminded me in part of the wonder I feel in Kate Paperie's except replacing the paper variety with whisical kitchen appliances.

Lunch was had in a little restaurant that had been around at least 1912 if not earlier by the photographs hanging on the wall. Here I accideently used the men's restroom but in my defence, there was no picture or words on the door and I don't think I had ever seen a bathroom so clean for men. Here we dined on pizza so light that the crust could have been made out of air only and rosti which is hashbrowns covered with ham and then the most delightful cheese melted on top and to that delightful recipe, a sunny side egg is placed on top with a sprig of rosemary to accent this delicious food. Oh so good! Expect to see this one being baked frequently in the near future.

Then came Globus [www.globus.ch]. If you remember MAcy's in their hay day of ifnery and standard of excellence; that is Globus of today. However you would need to still add on a most amazin grocery store to complete out the wonder Globus is. This grocery store may provide a few wonders for me to take home, though I am saddened none of the cheeses are able to come with me. It is the quality of the French cheese that takes evvery meal and turns it in to unforgetable. So let me jump to dinner.

Dawn and I dined at one of her local favorites in Morges and after that meal, I can see why. For our meal we split fondue and steak with a bottle of vino. Now one could think that sentence could conjour up an adequate descripton of the meal but it would do it injustice to leave it as such. T vino was Faunu's Nero D'avola which I was thankful for Dawn's California upbringing and expertise knowledge of wines. She described it as "buttery", which it was. Gentle and sublte in taste and so perfectly completemented our food. I also learned when eating fondue you want vino as your drink as the acidity breaks down the cheese. As a back up, soda can work but you never just want water. Which is fine by me. In Switzerland the locals only have fondue in the cold months and thankfully for me, it is cold outside tongiht. The cheese was outstanding nad know my lack of description is only out respect to the cheese that I feel that I cannot do it justice with trying to capture it with pen, so I restrain. Lastly is the the steak that coms out on a hot stone surounded by potaoes au gratin and four amazing sauces to dip it in. The steak continues t cook on the hot stone until you reason it is cooked for you. And the four dipping sauces; each distinct and delightful and completement the fine meat so well. I will have to post later when I get to pictures but their is a picture of bib to follow. That is what you wear when you cook the mat to protect your clothing. And here they don't rush you through your meals to get the next set of guests in. So after two hours of enjoyable conversation and delicious food our meal came to a close and I oft to bed. Bon jour.